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'Sighted the coast
of Brazil the 28th'
John Murphy's journey to South America in 1863
1852 La Plata, 2,402 tons, of the
of the Royal Mail Steam Co., ran to South America for several
years together with the Paraná.
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John Murphy (1822-1909)
was born in Haysland, Kilrane parish of County Wexford, the eldest
son of the farmer Nicholas Murphy and his wife, Katherine, née
Sinnott. It was a typical Catholic middle-class family of Wexford
countryside. In an emigration organised by Kilrane merchant James
Pettit, in 1844 John Murphy went to Liverpool, sailed to the Río de
la Plata region and settled in Buenos Aires. He first worked digging
ditches in the district of Chascomús, and then as a shepherd in
Chacabuco. In 1854 Murphy purchased land in Salto and established
the successful sheep-farm 'La Flor del Uncalito', in which many
other Irish immigrants (including his brothers William and Patrick)
would work as shepherds and hands. When his mother died in 1861,
John Murphy went to Ireland to visit the family and returned to
Argentina in 1863. The
following letters were written by John Murphy during three calls of
the journey from Wexford to Southampton and to Buenos Aires in the
last weeks of 1863. The
Paraná of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. departed from
Southampton on 9 November 1863, called at Lisbon (13 November), Cape
Vert (20), Pernambuco (28 November), Bahia (30 November), and Rio de
Janeiro (3 December). The passengers then boarded the Mercy,
and arrived in Buenos Aires on 13 December 1863, though they were
registered on 1 January 1864 with the port authorities (Coghlan
1982: 88, Howat 1984:135). With the wooden screw steamer Esk
- she arrived at
Buenos Aires
on 12 January 1851 - the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co. offered ‘the
first regular steamship service to
South America
’. The Paraná was a much larger 2,250 tons wooden paddle
steamer of 92.96 m length, with two funnels and three masts. She was
built in Southampton by Wigram & Sons, and made her maiden
South Atlantic
voyage in 1862 [Bonsor 1983: 22]. She could accommodate three
hundred first class passengers and had a dining saloon about 26
yards (23.8 meters) long with ninety-six sits.
John J. Murphy
(Witcomb, ca. 1870) |
John
Murphy's journey was typical of several Irish emigrants to South
America in the second half of the nineteenth century. Steamers were
preferred by the emigrants to sailboats because of their higher
certainty of departures and arrivals. The average sailing from
British ports to Buenos Aires on a steam boat lasted between four
and six weeks. However, John Murphy was an experienced traveller and
this was the second time he sailed the South Atlantic seaway. In
adddition, his journey was not typical in that he travelled in first
class - he paid £55 for the ticket and shared a cabin with two
other passengers - an enjoyed the luxuries and entertainment
normally forbidden to steering passengers. These
letters are included in the Anastasia Joyce Collection and belong to
SILAS Manuscripts and Rare Books Collection (Max von Buch Library of Universidad de San Andrés,
Buenos Aires). |
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John
James Murphy to Martin Murphy, 13 November 1863 (
Lisbon
)
Dear
Friends,
I
take this hurried opportunity of informing you that we have
arrived safe here at present in good health, but the mood of all
on board having suffered much from say sickness since we left
Southampton
.
Dear
brother, I received your letter after coming on board I am
satisfied as regards the Barns purchased &c. Do as you think
best in these matters. I shall defer any particulars as to the
passage until I reach
Buenos Aires
. I am about going on shore now to post this letter and to see
the town, the particulars of which I shall give you hereafter.
There were about 100 first class passengers sat down to dinner
the first day, but since there has been very few at table owing
to the say sickness.
Dear
friends, I must cut this short as all is topsy-turvy. Adieu dear
friends and believe me to be your dear brother,
John
Murphy
PS:
I got no letter or message from you since I came here. We leave
now and God be with you all. |
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John
James Murphy to Martin Murphy, 20 November 1863 (
Cape
Verde)
My
dear and affectionate friends,
The
idea of letting this opportunity pass without writing to you
would be trouble hereafter knowing as I do, that you are always
desirous to hear from me. In this I intend to give you some
account of my passage up to here, but it must be a brief and as
simple as possible.
When
I arrived in Southampton I found I could not secure my passage
owing to the books being then in London and on Saturday morning
the books came to Southampton and I then took a cabin with two
others at £55 each, the one a German the other an Englishman
residing in Pernambuco. The packet a splendid paddle steam ship
that can accommodate about 300 passengers (first class), and I
expect half that number of steerage passengers left the docks on
Saturday night and remained about two miles down the river until
Monday. We the passengers went on board at 12 o'clock and the
mails, about fifty bags, was put on board about two at which
hour she started on her voyage with 118 first class and about 26
second class passengers. The dining saloon of this magnificent
ship is about 26 yards long with two tables that extend the full
length at which sat 96 individuals male and female to dine at 5
o'clock the first evening. The day was very fine and everyone
appeared buoyant and in good spirits, with the prospect of a
safe and pleasant voyage before him. But the next morning
[illeg.] a great many in their bed (myself amongst the rest) as
the sea became heavy and came on to her side occasioned [illeg.]
her to role very much. This continued until Wednesday morning,
the sea [illeg.] as we approached the
Bay of Biscay
, the wind still holding to the West, which [illeg.] the sea
into her side and washing completely over her, which left it
almost impossible for even the hands to [illeg.] the ship. The
deck which stood about 25 feet above the sea was not visited by
a single passenger while passing the
Bay of Biscay
. On Friday morning those that were able go on deck found
themselves in sight of land proceeding along the coast of
Portugal
with the sea much moderated. When this was announced to the
passengers in bed the most of them endeavoured to get up the
weather improving as we must, that by 12 October, when we
reached the harbour of Lisbon, all hands were on deck and many
of them already prepared to go on shore, I amongst the rest
(though still weak from the sailing of the previous days)
accompanied the rest to the shore to see the curiosities of this
place and its people. The principal part of the city is very
beautiful, the streets wide and well paved, the houses high and
nicely ornamented, the squares and promenades are paved in
patterns with different colour stones and set off with works of
aesthetic splendour. In approaching its shores the first
curiosity is the number of windmills that is to be seen on every
direction with peculiar shaped sails like a half diamond and I
believe every farm house has a mill attached to it. The farmers
all grind their own wheat both for use and for sale. The
appearance of the country from the sea is very barren and
mountainous, with neither the prospect of being a tillage or
grazing land. We here landed some passengers and the mails, and
took on board others with about 700 tons coal and 110
passengers. The latter [illeg.] the ship so much that there has
to be two rounds of breakfast and dinner with about 100 at each.
Saturday
14th about 9 A.M. we started, being a fine day. We enjoyed the
[illeg.] of the harbour very much, which is in [illeg.] very
beautiful. About 12 o'clock we met the French packet from Buenos
Ayres and saluted her, and proceeded on our voyage with scarcely
a breeze. Sunday after breakfast the officers and hands on board
were [illeg.] on deck in their uniform, there names called over
and then marched down to the saloon and prayers read for them by
the Parson and to all others who wished to attend (being a week
at sea). The rule is that plays and other amusements begin.
Dancing commence every evening after tea to the music of the
band belonging to the ship. Tuesday 17th we sighted the peak of
Tenerife, which one would imagine that it was a point of cloud
appearing through the others and beneath the mountain that
support it there was a large [illeg.] ship close to the shore
which we afterwards discovered to be a Spanish frigate of war,
the officers and men were all surprised to think the Spaniards
should have such a fine large ship in their fleet.
Wednesday
18th. There is not a ripple in the sea if you could just give a
peep on board you would find in all parts of the ship some play
as pastime going on. Several of the young men and women
passengers has got up a theatre to act in the first part of the
night. The programme is indeed very amusing and better than you
would often find from professionals. They perform 4 acts every
night and when that finishes the dance continues up to 12 or 1
o'clock.
Thursday
and Friday. Very fine and exceedingly warm, we had some heavy
thunder yesterday, and today some showers. We had sight of
St. Vincent
this evening. It's now 10 o'clock P.M., and we expect to meet
the mail packet far from about 11 o'clock, so that I must close
my letter before actually arriving at where it's dated from in
order to send it by her as I shall have no other opportunity
until I reach Buenos Ayres. You will be glad to know that I am
getting good health much better than I expected so you must
content yourself with this hurried scribble and I shall
endeavour to give you a better and more satisfactorily account
of the remainder of the voyage. So farewell dear friends and I
remain as ever your affectionate brother,
John
Murphy
I
wrote from
Lisbon |
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John
James Murphy to Martin Murphy, 5 December 1863 (
Rio de Janeiro
)
Downtown Rio de Janeiro (ca.
1865).
(Georges Leuzinger
in 'O Rio de Janeiro do fotógrafo Leuzinger: 1860-1870' by
Maria L. David de Sanson et al., Rio de Janeiro: Sextante,
1998, p. 21). |
Dear
Brother and Friends,
The
part of this letter dated from
St. Vincent
was written with a view of sending it by the packet we were to
meet there. But having missed her during night I had to enclose
by this although not as well as should wish it done yet far the
improvement I can make in it. It's not worth while to commence
writing it over again but shall commence with a few remarks of
the voyage from that date.
We
left St. Vincent on Saturday 4 o'clock P.M., crossed the Line
Thursday 26th, sighted the coast of Brazil 28th, arrived in
Pernambuco 29th, left there same evening, arrived in Bahia on
30th, left there on 1st December, and arrived here Rio de
Janeiro on Friday 4th in good health and spirits, thanks be to
God. I have been on shore at all the above mentioned places and
I must say that they present a great of scenery and romantic
curiosity to the stranger. Those countries all are very
mountainous, and the difficult streets of the cities can be only
traversed by means of chairs carried by negroes. There are an
abundance of all kinds of fruit, and the natives are clothed
with scarcely enough to cover them. The ship we arrived here in,
named the Paraná, proceeds no further than here. She is met
here by the Mercy, that trades between here and Bs. As. She
brings the mail from Bs. As. and then they are conveyed home by
the ship that brought us out. We proceeded from her for Bs. As.
on Monday 7th, and expect to be in Bs. As. on Sunday 13th. I
shall write from there by the first packet and let you know how
all friends are. After getting on so well this voyage I shall
not think so much of making one hereafter. From the hubbub
that's on board it's almost impossible to write any thing, so
you must content yourself with the present. I should nor have
written at all under such circumstances were it not that I
promised to write on every opportunity.
There
are six prisoners going home by this packet, to be tried by the
laws of
England
, for having murdered the Captain, Mate, cook and some sailors
on board an English ship off on the coast, or in the River
Plate. They are chiefly not Englishmen as I believe none of
them.
Dear
friends, I must conclude by wishing this may find you all in
good health which will ever be the prayers of your dear and
affectionate brother,
John
Murphy |
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References -
Coghlan, Eduardo A. Los Irlandeses en la Argentina: Su Actuación
y Descendencia (Buenos Aires, 1987). -
Howat, Jeremy
N. T. (1984), South American Packets 1808-1880 (York:
Postal History Society, William Session Ltd.). -
Bonsor, N. R.
P. (1983), South Atlantic Seaway (Jersey Channel Islands:
Brookside Publications).
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